Come early March, a coastal border rarely looks its best. Salt-laden gusts, horizontal rain and the odd late storm will have flattened stems, scorched evergreen foliage and scattered mulch across the path. Before reaching for the fork, give yourself a slow half-hour with a bucket and a pair of secateurs. Walk the border, note which plants have come through unscathed, and which are blackened, snapped or simply sitting in waterlogged ground. That first assessment saves you time later, because it tells you where drainage needs improving and which spots are simply too exposed for anything tender. Coastal gardening is less about fighting the wind and more about working with what it leaves behind.
Spring is the best mulching window on the coast. Soils here tend to be thin, sandy and quick to drain, so they lose moisture fast once the wind picks up. A generous mulch does three jobs at once: it feeds the soil as it breaks down, suppresses weeds and stops the next gale from lifting moisture out of the surface.
If you garden on a raised bed or in containers, mulch matters even more. Pots dry out from every side, and a seaweed-based feed watered in after mulching gives plants a gentle boost without forcing soft growth too early.
Cut back anything that has been shredded by wind or burnt by salt spray, working back to healthy wood or a strong pair of buds. Evergreens such as hebe, escallonia and olearia often show brown, scorched leaf edges — trim lightly rather than hard, because they will not reshoot from old wood.
Leave lavender, rosemary, santolina and other Mediterranean shrubs until late April, once the risk of a sharp frost has passed. Then trim the previous year's growth by about a third, keeping the plants tight and bushy and preventing that leggy, open centre that lets wind rip straight through. Ornamental grasses should be cut back to 10–15cm now, before new shoots appear. Any stem that snaps cleanly when bent is dead; if it flexes, leave it. Clear all prunings away rather than composting them on the border, where they'll simply blow about again.
The real joy of a coastal border is the hardy annual, sown direct where it is to flower and left to get on with it. These plants germinate in cool soil, tolerate a salty breeze and, crucially, resent being fussed over.
Sow in shallow drills or simply scatter and rake in, from mid-March onwards. Where the wind is relentless, sow into modules under cover and plant out hardened-off seedlings in April — you'll lose far fewer to the weather. Thin seedlings to 15–20cm apart; crowded plants sulk and mildew in humid coastal air. A fleece cloche over the first fortnight earns its keep.
If your plot is a courtyard, a balcony or a narrow strip behind a sea wall, structure does the hard work. A woven willow hurdle, a slatted fence with gaps for air to pass through, or even a row of tough, low-growing shrubs will filter wind rather than block it. Solid barriers simply create damaging gusts on the other side.
Use dwarf and compact cultivars — lavender 'Hidcote', dwarf erigeron, thrift, fescue grasses and sedum — to keep planting in scale. In containers, choose heavy pots, raise them on feet for drainage and group them together so they shelter one another. Terracotta dries out quickly in wind, so glazed or plastic-lined pots are often the kinder choice.
Coastal wind dries foliage and soil faster than most gardeners expect, so water in the morning rather than the evening, and water deeply rather than little and often. Feed lightly through spring — too much nitrogen produces soft, sappy growth that salt spray will shred. Check stakes and ties on anything tall after every blow, firm in seedlings lifted by frost, and keep an eye out for slugs sheltering under grit mulches. Do this bit by bit and by late May your border will be full, colourful and quietly weatherproof.
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